Florida 2007: Day six
Wednesday, November 21st, 2007
Yesterday had been a long and tiring day but I woke unusually early this morning. It took a few moments to realise what had woken me but I soon realised that it was due to the large puddle that had appeared on the floor of the tent under the open door. So it had rained overnight again it would seem. Being that cold, wet and awake before sunrise I guess I could have been forgiven for thinking I was back home - it was somehow comforting that I didn’t have to hop in the car and head to work.
So, where was I going today? I didn’t really know. I did know that I wanted to stop at Biscayne National Park and, hopefully, Everglades National Park too. Apart from that it was a case of making it up as I went along, although I did have it in mind that I would be happy if I made it as far as Naples by nightfall. Tomorrow I’d head up to Sarasota to spend Thanksgiving with an old friend and, as I watched the sun rise over the ocean from Sandspur Beach, I started to worry how his new husband would appreciate me rocking up and sleeping in their spare room.
As soon as the sun was up I quickly packed away the tent, grabbed a nice hot shower and hopped in the car. I stopped at the gatehouse to enquire about possible campgrounds in the Naples area and ended up chatting with the ranger who was happy to open up the office and get me the information that I needed even though he wasn’t actually on duty. It summed up Bahia Honda State Park - absolutely fantastic - I would definitely return in the future and I would happily recommend it to others.
I made excellent time back towards Key Largo - evidently too good as I had to quickly pull off the road at one point in order to escape the attention of a State Trooper who I’d sped past - and pulled in to Biscayne National Park at 0945. I’d come for the glass bottom boat tour which leaves at 1000 and rushed upstairs to book myself a place but was informed that the usual tour wasn’t running today due to the murky waters caused by the high winds of the previous couple of days. Instead they were going to head out to Boca Chita Key - somehow it seemed a better option to me.
It was quite a long ride out so I was pleased that the park ranger onboard was, once again, able to give an entertaining and informative presentation. I do love the National Park Service! It was really interesting to get an idea of what The Keys would have been like prior to Henry Flagler built his famous railroad. The ranger pointed out how you could actually see the Gulf Stream on the water just off the shore and then the irreparable damage caused by inexperienced or incapable boat owners who had taken a short cut across the coral reef and destroyed both the coral and the sea grass.
As we made out way back to park headquarters I sat on the bow of the boat and the ranger, having finished his presentation and seeking to escape the never-ending questions from the couple from Tokyo, came up to join me. We sat up there for twenty minutes or so, exchanging stories of our travels through our respective home countries and talking about our future plans. For a while I felt like a real traveller but this was short-lived as he started to recount his trip through South America - suddenly I felt a bit inferior and promised myself that I would get out and see some more of this world of ours before I was very much older. But that would have to wait; for now my next destination would be the nearby Everglades National Park and, as luck would have it, the friendly ranger spent two years working there previously and offered some very helpful suggestions.
Back in the car, I set off in the direction of Shark Valley where I planned to ride the last tram of the day at 3pm. As I left Biscayne National Park I was surprised to see just how close it was to Homestead-Miami Speedway - the contrast between the two couldn’t have been greater.
By the time I arrived at the Shark Valley entrance of the Everglades National Park I was running rather later than planned and I didn’t think that I’d make the tram but I made it with (literally) seconds to spare. As I took my seat we set off - I couldn’t have timed it any better. Originally I had planned to hire a cycle and explore the loop at my own pace, but the ranger at Biscayne had suggested it is far more rewarding to have someone pointing things out on your first visit. I was soon very grateful to him for his advice as Everglades National Park was a very different park to I am used to. Very flat (obviously!) and, at first glance, a little dull but, with an expert pointing things out, utterly fascinating. I was very glad to have arrived when I did as I really would have missed out if I’d not taken that tour.

We arrived back at the tram station a short while after 5pm and I sat in the car and wondered where to go next. I had originally thought I would head over to Naples, leaving the last leg of the drive to Sarasota for the next day, but I decided that I should press on as far as possible. I finally got my sunset as I drove along the Tamiami Trail through Big Cypress National Preserve; absolutely stunning. As I drove on I started to feel a little faint, and then realised that I’d not eaten anything for almost 24 hours, so I pulled into a gas station for the usual healthy diet of road food - a packet of cashews and a can of Red Bull - which amazingly did the trick and I soon had a second wind. I pressed on; revelling in the moment. I don’t know what it is about me and my road trips but I do love being able to switch my mind off, turn the music up and concentrate on nothing other than what is in front of you whilst counting down the miles to your destination. Bliss.
Everglades City rushed past my window in a blur, as did Marco Island, Naples, Bonita Springs and Fort Myers. I finally decided to call it a day once I was north of Fort Myers and pulled off the Interstate to seek overnight accommodation. I found a nice shiny new Super 8, the only ones I usually consider stopping at as the dirt and dust hasn’t yet had time to accumulate, and pulled in. I’d heard horror stories of travelling on the eve of Thanksgiving and wondered if I’d have a problem finding a room. I needn’t have worried as the Super 8 proved not only to be cheap and clean but it had enough spare capacity to cope with the unannounced arrival of the 101st Airborne. And it had wifi too which was a real luxury after a week away from my emails.



